CanCycle and Easy Rider Owner’s Manual (8 speed Nexus, V-brakes front & rear)

Thank you for purchasing a Pedal Easy E-Bike. Your bike has been carefully designed and assembled to provide you with the ultimate cycling experience by combining the very best elements of a quality bicycle with the added benefit of power assist when you need or want to use it. Best of all, it’s easy to use and maintain.

Please take a moment now to record your bike’s unique serial number. The serial number is stamped into the frame on the bottom of the bottom bracket (pedal crankcase). If you have someone raise the bike on the rear wheel, you’ll be able to see it. Or you can turn the bike upside down resting on the handlebars and seat to write it down. Hope this helps. Enjoy your cycling!

Serial number_________________________

1. Brakes
   • Check that both front & rear brakes effectively stop the bicycle and pads do not rub when wheels turn.
2. Wheels & Tires
   • Check tire pressure is correct (see “Maintenance” below)
   •  Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications (see “Maintenance”) 
3. Saddle
   • Adjust to proper height for rider & ensure clamp is secure
   •  Ensure minimum insertion mark on seat post is not visible.
4. Steering
   • Check alignment of forks, handlebar with direction of travel
5. Chain
   • Check that chain runs freely and is properly tensioned (see “Maintenance”)
6. Cranks & Pedals
   • Check cranks are secure to spindle (axle) 
   •  Check pedals are securely fastened.
7. Internal hub & shifter
   • Check for smooth, crisp shifting
8. Frame & Fork
   • Check that the frame & fork are undamaged.
9. Electrical
   • Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch and throttle.
10. Safety
    • Check that reflectors are visible, the bell is functional, and rider helmet is worn.
    •  In Ontario, riders of power-assisted bikes must be over 16 years old and wear a helmet.

Warranty

There is a two-year replacement warranty on all bicycle parts, including electrical, should any parts fail due to manufacturing defects. 

Disclaimer: Pedal Easy is not liable for any injury that may occur while using the Pedal Easy Bicycle. Please read the manual before using our product, and always wear a helmet.

CanCycle pictured. Easy Riders have similar components.

Day-to-day Operation:

Shifting Gears 

Internal-gear hubs, unlike derailleurs, can be shifted multiple gears at a time while stationary or lightly pedaling or while coasting. Twist the shift collar forwards to gear down, and backwards to gear up.

Power control

A half-grip twist throttle on the left side of the handlebar controls power to the motor. Rotating the throttle provides fine control proportional to the amount of power assist. For safety, the throttle spring returns to zero assist (no power) when released. The half-grip allows the rider to comfortably maintain throttle position while riding (index finger and thumb grip the throttle, while the other fingers hold the stationary part of the handlebar half-grip). We also have thumb throttle and finger throttle options. For comfort and upper-body cushioning, the palms should rest on the rubber lip at the rear of the ergonomic grips.

To activate the motor, push the red Power button. There are 3 LED lights (red, yellow, green) that give an indication of how much charge (energy) is in the battery. When all 3 LEDs are on, the battery is fully charged. At around 50% charge the bottom light (green) goes out; and when charge reduces to about 15% the middle light (yellow) goes out. The top light (red) stays on all the time the switch is “on”. The power switch should be turned “off’ whenever the bicycle is to be left unattended. Leaving it on not only drains the battery but also it is a safety hazard as someone may inadvertently twist the throttle, in which case the bicycle will move forward.

Power Assisted Cycling

The motor drives the front wheel of the bicycle, and the pedals drive the rear wheel. The front wheel drive helps with stability when cycling on sand or other soft ground, effectively “pulling” the front wheel in the direction of travel and preventing it from “ploughing”. The two drive systems (battery-power at the front and rider-power at the rear) are independent, so either can be used alone or both can be used simultaneously…that is, you can power the bike by pedaling only, just like a conventional bike, or you can power the bike by motor only, using the throttle without pedaling, or you can pedal & use the throttle for assistance at the same time. When approaching a hill, particularly a steep one, engage the power before you get to the hill, and keep the speed up. If you slow too much when you’re on the hill, motor efficiency drops, which can cause it to feel below normal power. CAUTION: On ice be careful with use of the throttle, particularly when cornering, as it can spin the wheel and possibly initiate a front wheel skid.

Battery

The battery is the heart of the e-bike. We use only Panasonic or Samsung Lithium-Ion cells, the gold standard. Feel free to charge after every use. There is no “memory effect” as there is with some other battery types, so charging at partial depletion has no negative effect on the battery. Charging when the battery temperature is below 0 °C can damage it. Using the battery at low temperatures, however, is not a problem. When used at low temperature though, the range is reduced (at minus 20°C the distance you can go on a charge is about half what it normally is). Avoid storing the battery at elevated (>25°C) temperature. Sub-zero storage temperatures are fine. Do not drop the battery on a hard surface. 

Need battery in trunk bag photo

Battery Charging

The small black plug on the battery plugs into the charger. The charger is plugged into a standard 110V AC household electrical outlet (or car inverter). The charger will also work on 220V AC power. The charger has a single power-on light that changes red to green when the battery is fully charged. The battery can be left on the bike while charging, in a garage for example, or it can be removed for charging elsewhere, by unplugging the red socket and pin connector as described below. The battery cannot be overcharged. It’s safe to leave it on the charger overnight.

Need photo with new charger and new connector

Removing Battery

There are two connectors on the battery. The small black one connects to the battery charger. The other one with the red & black sleeves, connects to the bike. They will only fit together one way, connecting red wire to red and black wire to black. To remove the battery from the bike for charging, open the trunk bag and gently pull the connector sleeves apart. Pull only on the sleeves and never directly on the wires. Once charged, return the battery to the bag, and reconnect. Push firmly to fully insert the sleeves of the connector (Need photo with new charger, bag & Anderson connector)

Battery Range

Range is dependent on speed, terrain, rider weight, and how much effort the rider supplies. Most riders achieve 50 or more km on a charge. Fit riders who pedal a lot can comfortably achieve 80 km (pedaling moderately hard but avoiding heavy exertion). Charging from full discharge takes about 4 hours. Charge time is proportional to state of charge (for example, a half-discharged battery will take about 2 hours to fully charge). For maximum range, use the motor sparingly, avoid unnecessarily rapid acceleration, and keep speed down to minimize wind resistance. If more range is needed, an optional 30% larger battery is available, or you can carry a spare battery.

Troubleshooting

Basic Maintenance Procedures:

Lubricate & clean the chain & drive train components like a regular bike. All parts except a few electrical components (motor, throttle, controller, battery) are conventional bike components, so the maintenance is the same as for any bike. 

Front wheel removal & installation

1. Disconnect motor connector at front hub (the two-piece rubber connector pulls apart, but when re-inserting it be sure that the alignment arrows molded into the rubber on each half are perfectly in line, and then push hard to ensure the two halves of the connector are engaged up to the line that is molded into the rubber)
2. Loosen both axle nuts enough to clear the safety “lips” on the fork dropouts.
3. Release V-brake cable so brake-arms open wide enough for wheel removal.
4. Remove wheel from fork.

Take note of how anti rotation washers are positioned on both sides of the axle. These tabs engage with the fork dropouts (the slots at the ends of the bicycle’s fork).

Installation is the reverse of removal: Insert wheel into dropouts, being sure anti-rotation washers are correctly positioned. Check to ensure the axle is fully inserted into dropouts & wheel is centered in the fork. The conventional washers go on the outside of the fork. Torque axle nuts to 35 N.m …proper torque is important to ensure solid retention between axle & fork and prevent rotation of axle due to motor torque.

Rear wheel removal & installation:

These Pedal Easy models use Shimano Nexus internal-geared hubs. Such hubs are quite common on conventional bikes as well, and virtually all Canadian bike shops should be familiar with them, but they do require some special steps for wheel removal (relative to derailleur equipped bikes).

1. The shifter cable must be removed from the hub. Basically, you pull the outer casing (F) free of its holder (D), then pull the inner cable (A) free of the pulley.
2. Anti-rotation (non-turn) washers are fitted on both sides of the axle. They are colour coded and must be installed in the correct orientation. Black on right, grey on left. Note this on disassembly and correct reassembly will be ensured. 

Re-attaching the shifter cable is the reverse of disconnecting it. Before tightening the axle nuts, the drive chain must be tensioned. Drive chain tension is governed by the position of the rear axle in the dropouts (how deeply engaged it is). The final step in installing the rear wheel then, is to pull back gently on the wheel just before tightening the axle nuts. The exact amount of tension is not critical, but the aim is to have the chain tight enough that at mid-span (halfway between crank and rear axle) the chain can be moved laterally up and down about +/- 1 cm, under moderate finger force.

General note on hill climbing with e-bikes

For climbing steep hills, engage the motor before you start climbing. It is better to go up quickly rather than slowly. You will be able to gauge this by motor noise…. the quieter it is, the more efficiently it is running. Go up hills at about twice the speed you would normally pedal up. While you are in the learning stages of the bicycle we recommend gearing down as you would on a conventional bike before going up a steep hill. As you become more comfortable with the bike, you will notice that you don’t have to use the lowest gears to climb hills. For pedaling up steep hills there is no need to gear down as much as you would with a conventional bike.  

Regular Scheduled Maintenance – We recommend that the following be checked periodically

Internal hub & shifter

• Check for smooth, crisp, silent changing
• Check that shifter is firmly attached to handlebar
• Check alignment of yellow index marks on hub while in 4th gear.

Rotate the gear adjustment at the roto-shifter on the handlebar.

Use this knurled knob to adjust yellow markers on the hub

Brakes

• Check cables and housings for kinks, corrosion, or other damage
• Check that housings are fully inserted in housing stops
• Check brake levers are securely fastened to handlebar
• Check that V-brake arms move freely and are well secured to their posts
• Check brake pads for wear and alignment.

Wheels & tires

• Check tire pressure is within spec (see below)
• Check for adequate tread depth & ensure no bulges, cuts, or abrasions
• Check all wheel spokes are firm
• Check that rims run true
• Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications.

Saddle

• Adjust to proper height for rider & ensure clamp is secure
• Ensure minimum insertion mark on the seat post is not visible.

Steering

• Check that headset bearing preload is correct (free steering but no play)
• Check alignment of forks, handlebar & direction of travel
• Check stem is firmly attached to the fork steering tube and handlebar.

Chain

• Check chain is lubricated, clean, runs free, and is properly tensioned.

Bearings

• Check that headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings run smoothly and show no signs of excessive movement or noise.

Cranks & Pedals

• Check cranks are secure to spindle (axle) and are straight
• Check pedals are securely fastened.

Frame & Fork

• Check that the frame & fork are undamaged. Inspect closely for cracks or discoloration that could be a sign of a stress-caused failure (failure to replace can result in sudden failure & serious injury).

Electrical

Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch and throttle.

Tire pressure

CanCycle and standard Easy Rider 60 psi, but OK to set as low as 50 psi if you are of low to medium weight. For 26” Easy Rider the corresponding pressures are 50 psi and 40 psi. Lower pressure gives a softer ride. However, for lower rolling resistance, and to maximize battery range (at the sacrifice of a somewhat rougher ride), inflate to 65 psi for CanCycle & Easy Rider and 60 psi for 26” Easy Rider.

Torque specifications:

Front and rear axle nuts (4) 35 N.m

Handlebar to stem (4) 8 N.m

Stem to fork tube (steerer) (2) 8 N.m

Brake boss mounting bolts (2) 8 N.m

Crank bolts (2) 40 N.

CF Commuter Owner’s Manual 

Thank you for purchasing a Pedal Easy E-Bike. Your bike has been carefully designed and assembled to provide the ultimate cycling experience by combining the very best elements of a quality bicycle with the added benefit of power assist when you need or want to use it. Best of all, it’s easy to use and maintain. 

Specifications:

Frame: XC-lever, high modulus Carbon T800-18K

Size: 15” and 17”

Weight: 37 pounds

Wheel: 700c

Fork: TW MgAl alloy, Air suspension, Remote

Brakes: SHIMANO MT200 hydraulic Disc brake + PRO floating

Gears: SHIMANO SLX/M7000 Derailleur 21 speed

Tires: Continental, RACE KING, 29×2.0

Preliminary Safety Checklist: If your bike was shipped to you (as opposed to picked up at our shop) then, prior to use, please do the following (or have your bike mechanic confirm the following): 

1. Brakes 

Check brake levers are securely fastened to handlebar 

Check that both front & rear brakes effectively stop the bike 

2. Wheels & tires 

Check tire pressure is within acceptable range (see “Maintenance” below) 

Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications. 

3. Saddle 

Adjust to proper height for rider & ensure clamp is secure 

Ensure minimum insertion mark on seat post is not visible. 

4. Chain 

Check chain is lubricated, clean, runs free, and is properly tensioned.

5. Frame 

The CF Commuter gets its incredibly light weight from a carbon fiber frame, which requires a bit of extra care in handling and examining. Look closely for scratches, especially anything deep or through the paint. With a large coin tap on any suspect area and listen for a change in sound. A normal “tap” sound will become a dull thud if the carbon is broken. Gently push on the suspect area to feel if it’s softer than the surrounding area. Also, after being in service on loose gravel roads, check underneath the down tube for impact cracks, which can be caused by rocks flying up and smacking the down tube. If you find anything that concerns you, contact PedalEasy for advice.

6. Derailleurs 

Check both front & rear for proper changing 

Check that shifters are firmly attached to handlebar 

7. Electrical 

 Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch and throttle.

8. Safety: 

Check that reflectors are visible, bell is functional, and rider helmet is worn. In Ontario, riders of power-assisted bikes must be over 16 years old and wear a helmet. 

Warranty 

There is a two-year replacement warranty on all bicycle parts, including electrical, should any parts fail due to manufacturing defects. 

Disclaimer 

Pedal Easy is not liable for any injury that may occur while using the Pedal Easy Bicycle. Please read the manual before using our product, and always wear a helmet.

Power control

A half-grip twist throttle on the left side of the handlebar controls power to the motor. Rotating the throttle provides fine control proportional to the amount of power assist. For safety, the throttle spring returns to zero assist (no power) when released. The half-grip allows the rider to comfortably maintain throttle position while riding (index finger and thumb grip the throttle, while the other fingers hold the stationary part of the handlebar half-grip). We also have thumb throttle and finger throttle options. For comfort and upper-body cushioning, the palms should rest on the rubber lip at the rear of the ergonomic grips.

To activate the motor, push the red Power button. There are 3 LED lights (red, yellow, green) that give an indication of how much charge (energy) is in the battery. When all 3 LEDs are on, the battery is fully charged. At around 50% charge the bottom light (green) goes out; and when charge reduces to about 15% the middle light (yellow) goes out. The top light (red) stays on all the time the switch is “on”. The power switch should be turned “off’ whenever the bicycle is to be left unattended. Leaving it on not only drains the battery but also it is a safety hazard as someone may inadvertently twist the throttle, in which case the bicycle will move forward.

Power Assisted Cycling

The motor drives the front wheel of the bicycle, and the pedals drive the rear wheel. The front wheel drive helps with stability when cycling on sand or other soft ground, effectively “pulling” the front wheel in the direction of travel and preventing it from “ploughing”. The two drive systems (battery-power at the front and rider-power at the rear) are independent, so either can be used alone or both can be used simultaneously…that is, you can power the bike by pedaling only, just like a conventional bike, or you can power the bike by motor only (using the throttle) without pedaling, or you can pedal & use the throttle for assistance at the same time. When approaching a hill, particularly a steep one, engage the power before you get to the hill, and keep the speed up. If you slow too much when you’re on the hill, motor efficiency drops, which can cause it to feel below normal power. 

CAUTION: On ice be careful with use of the throttle, particularly when cornering, as it can spin the wheel and possibly initiate a front wheel skid.

Battery

The battery is the heart of the e-bike. We use only Panasonic or Samsung Lithium-Ion cells, the gold standard. Feel free to charge after every use. There is no “memory effect” as there is with some other battery types, so charging at partial depletion has no negative effect on the battery. Charging when the battery temperature is below 0 °C can damage it. Using the battery at low temperatures, however, is not a problem. When used at low temperature though, the range is reduced (at minus 20°C the distance you can go on a charge is about half what it normally is). Avoid storing the battery at elevated (>25°C) temperature. Sub-zero storage temperatures are fine. Do not drop the battery on a hard surface. Retake photo with current battery in trunk bag

Battery Charging

The small black plug on the battery plugs into the charger. The charger is plugged into a standard 110V AC household electrical outlet (or car inverter). The charger will also work on 220V AC power with a suitable outlet adapter. The charger has single power-on light that changes from red to green when the battery is fully charged. The battery can be left on the bike while charging, in a garage for example, or it can be removed for charging elsewhere, by unplugging the red socket and pin connector as described below. Retake photo with current battery charger.

The battery cannot be overcharged. It’s safe to leave it on the charger overnight.

Battery Removal for Charging

There are two connectors on the battery. The small black one connects to the battery charger. The other one with the red connector sleeves connects to the bike. They will only fit together one way, connecting red wire to red and black wire to black. To remove the battery from the bike for charging, unzip the pouch and gently pull the red connector sleeves apart. Pull only on the sleeves and never directly on the wires. Once charged, return the battery to the pouch and reconnect. Push firmly to fully insert the sleeves of the connector (this may take a fair amount of force). (re-take photo with trunk bag & more detail on what a fully inserted connector looks like).

Battery Range

An average weight person riding on a level surface using just the battery can expect a range of approximately 30 Km. As our bikes are lightweight to encourage pedaling, many of our customers report cycling ranges of 60 to over 100 km.

Charging from full discharge takes about 4 hours. Charge time is proportional to state of charge (for example, a half-discharged battery will take about 2 hours to charge). 

For maximum range, use the motor sparingly, avoid unnecessarily rapid acceleration, avoid motor-only use, and keep speed down to minimize wind resistance. If more range is needed between charges, carry a spare battery. 

The motor incorporates a planetary gear drive. The gear ratio has been chosen to provide high torque assistance to eliminate heavy exertion, rather than to provide high speed. Under pedal-power the bike can go as fast as the rider can pedal it, but at higher speeds (>32kph) motor assistance falls to zero and to go faster, the rider must provide additional effort. It freewheels downhill just as well as a conventional bike. The motor does not in any way impede the bike’s performance or limit its speed. 

Basic Maintenance Procedures 

Lubricate and clean the chain and drive train components like a regular bike. All parts except a few electrical components (motor, throttle, controller, battery) are conventional bike components, so the maintenance is the same as for any derailleur geared bike. Described below is essentially the only procedure that differs a bit from a conventional bike.

Front wheel removal & installation: 

Disconnect motor connector at front hub (the two-piece rubber connector pulls apart, but when re-inserting it be sure that the alignment arrows molded into the rubber on each half are perfectly in line, and then push hard to ensure the two halves of the connector are engaged up to the line that is molded into the rubber) 

Loosen both axle nuts enough to clear the safety “lips” on the fork dropouts. Note the position and orientation of the anti-rotation washers on both sides of the axle. 

Remove wheel from fork. 

Installation is the reverse of removal 

Insert wheel into dropouts with anti-rotation washers installed as in diagram. Check to ensure axle is fully inserted into dropouts & wheel is centred in fork. Torque axle nuts to 35 N.m. Proper torque is critical to ensure solid retention between axle & fork and prevent rotation of axle due to motor torque. Reconnect motor connector as per photo.

General 

The motor has its lowest efficiency when it is at stall or near stall conditions. At low efficiency it is not able to develop its maximum power. Therefore, for climbing steep hills it is better to engage the motor before reaching the hill and go up quickly rather than slowly. You will be able to gauge efficiency by motor noise…. the quieter it is, the more efficiently it is running. Go up hills at about twice the speed you would normally pedal up. We recommend gearing down like a conventional bike before going up a steep hill while you are in the learning stages of the bicycle. As you become more comfortable with the bike, you will notice that you don’t have to use the lowest gears to climb hills. For pedaling up steep hills there is no need to gear down as much as you would with a conventional bike.

Regular Scheduled Maintenance – we recommend that the following be checked periodically

Brakes 

• Check hydraulic brake lines for damage 
• Check hydraulic fittings for signs of leakage 
• Check brake levers are securely fastened to handlebar 
• Check that brake calipers and rotors are securely fastened 
• Check brake pads for wear and rotors for damage. 

Wheels & tires 

• Check tire pressure (see below) 
• Check for adequate tread depth & ensure no bulges, cuts, or abrasions 
• Check all wheel spokes are firm 
• Check that rims run true 
• Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications. 

Saddle: Adjust to proper height for the rider & ensure the clamp is secure. Ensure minimum insertion mark on the seat post is not visible. 

Steering 

• Check that headset bearing preload is correct (free steering but no play) 
• Check alignment of forks, handlebar & direction of travel 
• Check stem is firmly attached to the fork steering tube and handlebar. 

Chain: Check chain is lubricated, clean, runs free, and is properly tensioned. 

Cranks & Pedals 

• Check cranks are secure to spindle (axle) and are straight 
• Check pedals are securely fastened. 

Derailleurs & shifters 

• Check for proper changing 
• Check that shifter is firmly attached to handlebar 
• Check that front and rear derailleurs & firmly attached and that cables are not frayed 

Frame & Fork: Check that frame and fork are undamaged. Inspect closely for cracks or discoloration that could be a sign of a stress-caused failure, which can result in sudden failure and serious injury.

Electrical: Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch, and throttle. 

Tire pressure: 50 psi, but OK as low as 40 psi if you are of low to medium weight. Lower pressure gives a softer ride. For lower rolling resistance, and to maximize battery range, inflate to the maximum rated pressure of 65 psi.

Shimano Brake Manual: 

Shimano Derailleur Manual:

CF Commuter Owner’s Manual 

Thank you for purchasing a Pedal Easy E-Bike. Your bike has been carefully designed and assembled to provide the ultimate cycling experience by combining the very best elements of a quality bicycle with the added benefit of power assist when you need or want to use it. Best of all, it’s easy to use and maintain. 

Specifications:

Frame: XC-lever, high modulus Carbon T800-18K

Size: 15” and 17”

Weight: 37 pounds

Wheel: 700c

Fork: TW MgAl alloy, Air suspension, Remote

Brakes: SHIMANO MT200 hydraulic Disc brake + PRO floating

Gears: SHIMANO SLX/M7000 Derailleur 21 speed

Tires: Continental, RACE KING, 29×2.0

Preliminary Safety Checklist: If your bike was shipped to you (as opposed to picked up at our shop) then, prior to use, please do the following (or have your bike mechanic confirm the following): 

1. Brakes 

Check brake levers are securely fastened to handlebar 

Check that both front & rear brakes effectively stop the bike 

2. Wheels & tires 

Check tire pressure is within acceptable range (see “Maintenance” below) 

Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications. 

3. Saddle 

Adjust to proper height for rider & ensure clamp is secure 

Ensure minimum insertion mark on seat post is not visible. 

4. Chain 

Check chain is lubricated, clean, runs free, and is properly tensioned.

5. Frame 

The CF Commuter gets its incredibly light weight from a carbon fiber frame, which requires a bit of extra care in handling and examining. Look closely for scratches, especially anything deep or through the paint. With a large coin tap on any suspect area and listen for a change in sound. A normal “tap” sound will become a dull thud if the carbon is broken. Gently push on the suspect area to feel if it’s softer than the surrounding area. Also, after being in service on loose gravel roads, check underneath the down tube for impact cracks, which can be caused by rocks flying up and smacking the down tube. If you find anything that concerns you, contact PedalEasy for advice.

6. Derailleurs 

Check both front & rear for proper changing 

Check that shifters are firmly attached to handlebar 

7. Electrical 

 Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch and throttle.

8. Safety: 

Check that reflectors are visible, bell is functional, and rider helmet is worn. In Ontario, riders of power-assisted bikes must be over 16 years old and wear a helmet. 

Warranty 

There is a two-year replacement warranty on all bicycle parts, including electrical, should any parts fail due to manufacturing defects. 

Disclaimer 

Pedal Easy is not liable for any injury that may occur while using the Pedal Easy Bicycle. Please read the manual before using our product, and always wear a helmet. 

Need photo with rack & trunk bag and Clickstand instead of kickstand…see if Greenbike can supply black rims

Power control 

To activate the motor, push the red Power button. There are 3 LED lights (red, yellow, green) that give an indication of how much charge is in the battery. When all 3 LEDs are on, the battery is fully charged. At around 50% charge the bottom light (green) goes out; and when charge reduces to about 15% the middle light (yellow) goes out. The top light (red) stays on all the time the switch is “on”. The power switch should be turned “off’ whenever the bicycle is to be left unattended. Leaving it on not only drains the battery but also it is a safety hazard as someone may inadvertently twist the throttle, in which case the bicycle will move forward. 

A half-grip twist throttle on the left side of the handlebar controls power to the motor. Rotating the throttle forward provides fine control proportional to the amount of power assist. For safety, the throttle spring returns to zero assist (no power) when released. The half-grip allows the rider to comfortably maintain throttle position while riding (index finger and thumb grip the throttle, while the other fingers hold the stationary part of the handlebar half-grip). For comfort and upper-body cushioning, the palms should rest on the rubber lip at the rear of the ergonomic grips. 

Power Assisted Cycling 

The motor drives the front wheel of the bicycle, and the pedals drive the rear wheel. The front wheel drive can help a lot with stability when traversing sand or other soft ground, effectively “pulling” the front wheel in the direction of travel and preventing it from “ploughing”. The two drive systems (battery-power at the front and rider-power at the rear) are independent, so either can be used alone or both can be used simultaneously…that is, you can power the bike by pedaling only, just like a conventional bike, or you can power the bike by motor only (using the throttle) without pedaling, or you can pedal & use the throttle for assistance at the same time. 

CAUTION: On ice be careful with use of the throttle, particularly when cornering, as it can spin the wheel and possibly initiate a front wheel skid.

Battery 

The battery is the heart of any e-bike. We use only Panasonic or Samsung Lithium-Ion cells, the gold standard in Lithium-Ion batteries. Good practice is to charge after every significant use. There is no “memory effect” as there was with some older battery types, so charging at partial depletion has no negative effect on the battery. Charging when the battery temperature is below 0 °C can damage it. Using the battery at low temperatures, however, is not a problem. When used at low temperature though, the range is reduced (at minus 20°C the distance you can go on a charge is about half what it normally is). Avoid storing the battery at elevated (>25°C) temperature. Storing at sub-zero temperatures is fine. 

Battery Charging 

The small black plug on the battery plugs into the charger. The charger is plugged into a standard 110V AC household electrical outlet (or car inverter). The charger will also work on 220V AC power. The charger has a single power-on light that changes red to green when the battery is fully charged. The battery can be left on the bike while charging, in a garage for example, or it can be removed for charging elsewhere, by unplugging the red socket and pin connector as described below. The battery cannot be overcharged. It’s safe to leave it on the charger overnight. need new charger photo

Battery Removal for Charging 

There are two connectors on the battery. The small black one connects to the battery charger. The other one connects to the bike with an Anderson connector, connecting red to red and black to black. To remove the battery from the bike for charging, gently pull the connectors apart. Pull only on the sleeves and never directly on the wires. Once charged, reconnect the sleeves. Be sure to push firmly to fully connect. 

Battery Range

An average weight person riding on a level surface using just the battery can expect a range of approximately 30 Km. As our bikes are lightweight to encourage pedaling, many of our customers report cycling ranges of 60 to over 100 km.

Charging from full discharge takes about 4 hours. Charge time is proportional to state of charge (for example, a half-discharged battery will take about 2 hours to charge). 

For maximum range, use the motor sparingly, avoid unnecessarily rapid acceleration, avoid motor-only use, and keep speed down to minimize wind resistance. If more range is needed between charges, carry a spare battery. 

The motor incorporates a planetary gear drive. The gear ratio has been chosen to provide high torque assistance to eliminate heavy exertion, rather than to provide high speed. Under pedal-power the bike can go as fast as the rider can pedal it, but at higher speeds (>32kph) motor assistance falls to zero and to go faster, the rider must provide additional effort. It freewheels downhill just as well as a conventional bike. The motor does not in any way impede the bike’s performance or limit its speed. 

Basic Maintenance Procedures 

Lubricate and clean the chain and drive train components like a regular bike. All parts except a few electrical components (motor, throttle, controller, battery) are conventional bike components, so the maintenance is the same as for any derailleur geared bike. Described below is essentially the only procedure that differs a bit from a conventional bike. 

Front wheel removal & installation: 

Disconnect motor connector at front hub (the two-piece rubber connector pulls apart, but when re-inserting it be sure that the alignment arrows molded into the rubber on each half are perfectly in line, and then push hard to ensure the two halves of the connector are engaged up to the line that is molded into the rubber) 

Loosen both axle nuts enough to clear the safety “lips” on the fork dropouts. Note the position and orientation of the anti-rotation washers on both sides of the axle. 

Remove wheel from fork. 

Installation is the reverse of removal 

Insert wheel into dropouts with anti-rotation washers installed as in diagram. Check to ensure axle is fully inserted into dropouts & wheel is centred in fork. Torque axle nuts to 35 N.m. Proper torque is critical to ensure solid retention between axle & fork and prevent rotation of axle due to motor torque. Reconnect motor connector as per photo.

Rear wheel removal & installation: 

The rear wheel has a quick-release hub, so wheel removal simply requires releasing the tension in the skewer by flipping its release lever, then loosening its adjustment screw sufficiently to allow the wheel to be pulled from the rear dropouts (frame slots).

General 

The motor has its lowest efficiency when it is at stall or near stall conditions. At low efficiency it is not able to develop its maximum power. Therefore, for climbing steep hills it is better to engage the motor before reaching the hill and go up quickly rather than slowly. You will be able to gauge efficiency by motor noise…. the quieter it is, the more efficiently it is running. Go up hills at about twice the speed you would normally pedal up. We recommend gearing down like a conventional bike before going up a steep hill while you are in the learning stages of the bicycle. As you become more comfortable with the bike, you will notice that you don’t have to use the lowest gears to climb hills. For pedaling up steep hills there is no need to gear down as much as you would with a conventional bike.

Regular Scheduled Maintenance – we recommend that the following be checked periodically 

Brakes 

• Check hydraulic brake lines for damage 
• Check hydraulic fittings for signs of leakage 
• Check brake levers are securely fastened to handlebar 
• Check that brake calipers and rotors are securely fastened 
• Check brake pads for wear and rotors for damage. 

Wheels & tires 

• Check tire pressure (see below) 
• Check for adequate tread depth & ensure no bulges, cuts, or abrasions 
• Check all wheel spokes are firm 
• Check that rims run true 
• Ensure front and rear axle nuts are tightened to specifications. 

Saddle: Adjust to proper height for the rider & ensure the clamp is secure. Ensure minimum insertion mark on the seat post is not visible. 

Steering 

• Check that headset bearing preload is correct (free steering but no play) 
• Check alignment of forks, handlebar & direction of travel 
• Check stem is firmly attached to the fork steering tube and handlebar. 

Chain: Check chain is lubricated, clean, runs free, and is properly tensioned. 

Cranks & Pedals 

• Check cranks are secure to spindle (axle) and are straight 
• Check pedals are securely fastened. 

Derailleurs & shifters 

• Check for proper changing 
• Check that shifter is firmly attached to handlebar 
• Check that front and rear derailleurs & firmly attached and that cables are not frayed 

Frame & Fork: Check that frame and fork are undamaged. Inspect closely for cracks or discoloration that could be a sign of a stress-caused failure, which can result in sudden failure and serious injury.

TBD suspension fork adjustment

Electrical: Check for proper functioning of handlebar on/off switch, and throttle. 

Tire pressure: 50 psi, but OK as low as 40 psi if you are of low to medium weight. Lower pressure gives a softer ride. For lower rolling resistance, and to maximize battery range, inflate to the maximum rated pressure of 65 psi.

Shimano Brake Manual: 

Shimano Derailleur Manual